Sylhet (Bangladesh)

Brief history

Ancient times: Brahmin 'Silhatta'

Historians believe that Sylhet was a commercial center from ancient period and had people of Brahmin, Assamese, Dravidians, Arabs, Persian, and Turks background. It was a Brahmin kingdom and controlled by rajas. Sylhet was certainly known by the rest of India, and is even referred to in the ancient Hindu sacred Tantric text, the Shakti Sangama Tantra, as 'Silhatta or Srihatta' ((Sanskrit word, meaning a prosperous centre of trading).

In the ancient and early medieval period, a large part of the then Laur, Goud and Jaintia states which now constitute Sylhet were ruled primarily by local chieftains as viceroy of the Koch kings of Pragjyotishpur (the city of ancient glory, and present-day Gauhati) of Assam. There is evidence to suggest that the Maharaja Sri Chandradeva, of northern Bengal, conquered Bengal in the 10th century, although this is a much disputed topic amongst Bangladeshi historians and archaeologists. This was a period of relative prosperity and there is little evidence to suggest this was marred by wars or feuds.

1303: Islam introduced by Hazrat Shah Jalal (Rahimullah) by defeating Raja Gaur Govind

After the decline of the Brahmin kingdoms tribal people of mongols took control of Sylhet. The last chief to rule over Sylhet was Govinda of Gaur, or Gaur Govind as he is commonly known, of the Tepra tribe of Tripura and the Sylhet area became known as Gaur Kingdom.

Shah Jalal arrives with his 313 / 360 auliyas (followers)

According to legend, in 1301 Raja Gaur Govind amputated a Muslim of Sylhet and killed his newborn son after a crow had snatched a piece of beef meat which the Muslim had sacrificed to celebrate his son's birth and dropped it at the King's temple (or a Brahmin's house), causing great offence to the King.

The Muslim sought justice from Sultan of Gaur who eventually approached Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, a highly influential sufi (dervish) in Delhi, India, in 1303. Hazrat Nizamuddin requested Sheikh Makhdum Jalal ad-Deen bin Muhammad, popularly known as Hazrat Shah Jalal, to aid the Sultan. Hazrat Shah Jalal came with his auliyas (followers), including his nephew Hazrat Shah Poran.

The exact detail of this historic event vary. For example, the birthplace of Shah Jalal (Yemen or Turkey), the number of auliyas (313 or 360), who conquered Sylhet (Shah Jalal or Sikandar Khan Ghazi, or both), etc.

The popular narration is Shah Jalal crossed the Sylhet's Surma nodi (river) by sitting on a jainamaz (prayer rug) and ordered the adhan (call to prayer). This shattered Gaur Govind's palace. The Muslim army then defeated the Raja and his army using Shah Jalal and his auliya's help.

Spreading Islam throughout the country

Having conquered the land, Shah Jalal and his auliyas settled in various places throughout the country such as Mymensingh, Dhaka, Comilla and various locations with Sylhet Division, in order to spread Islam. Shah Jalal himself settled in Sylhet city in the Choukidhiki area as the earth/mud of that area had matched the earth his uncle had given him.

In recognition of the outstanding achievements of these Muslims, Sylhet is often referred to as 'City of Saints' and considered to be the spiritual capital of the country.

Shah Jalal dargah sharif and Shah Poran Mazar

When Shah Jalal passed away around 1350 he was buried in Amberkhana area and a shrine (mazar) was created in his honour. This shrine is called 'Dargah-e-Shah Jalal', also known locally as Shah Jalal's dargah sharif or Shah Jalal's mazar.

Located in the Khadim Nagar area of Sylhet city is the Shah Poran mazar which was established by Shah Poran as a khanqah (spiritual retreat). It now contains a grand masjid alongside Shah Poran's shrine.

Both Shah Jalal and Shah Poran died as bachelors.

'Urs'

The Shah Jalal and Shah Poran mazars are popular venues for 'urs' (spiritual festival) each year and attract thousands of people from all over the country. They are packed during prayers, especially Jummah (Friday Prayer), and are top tourist attractions for Muslims and Non-Muslims.

1765: Source of revenue for British

Robert Lindsay, first Resident Collector of Sylhet

On 23 June 1757 the British East India Company (EIC) defeated Siraj-ud-Daulah, Nawab of Bengal, in the Battle of Plassey, near Kolkata, with the help of the treacherous Mir Jafar to establish their dominancy in India. In 1764 their military control was reaffirmed at Battle of Buxar when the EIC beat the combined armies of Mir Qasim (Nawab of Bengal), Shuja-ud-Daulah (Nawab of Awadh) and Mughal Emperor Shah Alam II. The subsequent treaty gained them the Diwani, the taxation rights, for Bengal and Bihar.

Sylhet officially came under the control of the EIC in 1765 but it took almost two decades for them to establish their dominance. In 1778 the EIC appointed Robert Lindsay as "Resident (tax) Collector" of Sylhet. He served as the first administrator of Sylhet until 1790. During this 12 year period Lindsay, a trader by profession, was deeply involved in commercial activities and made a personal fortune in a short span of time before retiring. His private business enterprise in limestone, controlling the cowry economy, and building boats made him extremely rich.

Lindsay, an enterprising Scot, was determined to fill the Company's coffers. But at the same time he meant to look out for himself. Shortly after arriving in Sylhet, he started trading in elephants and limestone, and within a few years made a personal fortune. His dual role as trader and governor, however, stirred discontent. The Muslims of India were still smarting from their recent losses at British hands, and the Sylhetis in particular yearned for freedom.

Syed Zain Al-mahmood, Journalist

In his autobiography Lindsay described in details the conditions of agriculture and manufactures. He reported that main attraction of Sylhet to the colonial government was chunam, rattan, elephants, fishes, timbers, betel nut, bamboo and so on. People from far flung districts used to come to Sylhet for fishes, timbers, betel nuts and bamboo. He described about the jungle state of Sylhet and presence of animals such as elephant, tiger, rhinoceros, leopard, deer, and wild fowl.

Banglapedia - Robert Lindsay

The leading families of Sylhet were stalwart Muslims, descendants of a long line of warriors and reformers beginning with Shah Jalal, the 'Saint of Kunya' and his companions. Lindsay himself regarded the tomb of Shah Jalal as a potential hotbed of resistance.

Flooding increases hostility towards British

Disaster struck the region in 1781 when a devastating flood wiped out the crop. The resulting famine killed almost a third of the population. Although Lindsay wrote to Fort William - East India Company's base in Kolkata - urging tax exemption, the locals blamed the British for failing to prevent the catastrophe. There was an uprising, led by brothers Syed Muhammad Hadi and Syed Muhammad Mahdi (known locally as Hada Miah and Mada Miah), sons of a prominent local religious family. In his memoire "Anecdotes of An Indian Life", Lindsay simply refers to the leader of the rebellion as "Pirzada" - literally, "son of a religious leader".

In 1782, Lindsay and his army faced the Pirzada's followers near the site of the famed Shahi Eidgah in Sylhet. The rebels, armed with swords and spears, were no match for the firepower of the British. Although they fought gallantly, the uprising was swiftly quelled and the Pirzada was killed in battle. In his book Lindsay recalls how he lived in fear of revenge attacks by the Pirzada's followers for as long as he remained in Sylhet.

In the month of Muharram of 1782, two religious leaders, Syed Mohammad Hadi and his brother Syed Mohammad Mahdi along with their followers revolted against the British from this ground. Robert Lindsay, the then British Collector of Sylhet shot these brothers dead to foil the revolt against the British. This was even before the great revolt by Titumir. On that fated day in 1782, Syed Hadi and Syed Mahdi along with their followers gathered there with a Muharram procession. They planned to attack the British all on a sudden. But, things went wrong as the collector through his spies got the message ahead of the day. Lindsay reached the field along with a contingent and asked the people to surrender their arms. But the two brothers and the follows declined and revolted. At one stage of the long fight, Syed Hadi was shot dead by Lindsay. Hadi's brother-Mahdi also embraced martyrdom along with some others after a long fight. Robert Lindsay, who had served for about 12 years in Sylhet, also narrated the sad incident in his memoirs that he wrote on his return to England.

The Daily Star (Bangladesh)

Syed Ullah's revenge mission in Britain ends with him making a curry for Robert Lindsay!

Robert Lindsay served in Sylhet for 12 years. By 1809, Robert Lindsay was back home in Britain leading a life of retired luxury. One day, while out riding, he spotted an Indian by the side of the road. On questioning, the man said he had arrived on a merchant vessel from Bengal. It turned out he was from Sylhet, and so Lindsay invited him to his mansion. The man, Syed Ullah, said he was looking for a Briton named "Lindsay". "When I told him who I was, he looked at me with hatred in his eyes. 'So it was you who killed Pirzada!'".

Syed Ullah had come to avenge Pirzada's death. Lindsay expressed regret and explained that he was doing his duty on that day. It is not clear how, but the wily Scot managed to gradually defuse the tension. After the two had made peace, Lindsay asked Syed Ullah if he could cook curry. The Sylheti man replied that curry was his specialty and he usually carried some spices with him. Lindsay requested Syed Ullah to whip up an "Indian" meal. Lindsay writes in his memoirs that his family members begged him not to eat anything cooked by the oriental man. His children's governess had apparently dreamt that a black man had poisoned the entire family. Lindsay, however, was unmoved. "Never was a curry better dressed,” he wrote in Anecdotes, "and never did I have a better meal."

This strange incident may have been embellished slightly by Robert Lindsay, but it is actually the first specific report of a Sylheti in Britain. It is all the more remarkable because it brings together several of the threads that run through the early part of the British Bangladeshi narrative colonialism, the sea, and curry.

Sylhet's maritime past has been all but erased. Ask a local man about the seafaring "Sarangs" of old and you are likely to get a blank look. But it was not too long ago that names like Ayub Ali Master, Surab Sarang and Chowdhry Sarang were household names in the Sylhet region. The name "Sarang Bari" (Mariner's Home) harks back to a forgotten era in Sylhet's history. Very rarely one meets an old-timer whose eyes will light up at the mention of those names. "Ahhh, those Jahaji (sailor) folk! They were brave men!"

Syed Zain Al-mahmood, Journalist

1782: Sylhet Zila (Sylhet District)

Prior to 1782 Sylhet was under the direct control of the Dhaka (then spelt Dacca) sub-provincial administration. In order to release work pressure in the Dhaka province, Sylhet was separated into an administrative unit and made independent of Dhaka zone and on 3 January 1782 the Sylhet Zila (Sylhet District) was established by the Provincial Committee’s letter. Initially, the Company allowed the Faujdar (Administrators) of Sylhet to administer the area with limited power https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=M_BtAAAAMAAJ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjhtMCb1KjcAhVO-qQKHQ1eDq4Q6AEIKTAA.

But Sylhet still remained under the jurisdiction of Dhaka Division.

1824 - 1826: Strategic importance for British rule, especially during First Anglo-Burmese War

Since the late 18th century the East India Company was cautious about Burmese imperialist plans in Assam, Manipur, Sylhet and Chittagong – areas considered the 'frontiers' of colonial Bengal. In 1824 war broke out between Burma and the Company. Known as First Anglo-Burmese War (5 March 1824 – 24 February 1826), it ravaged Manipur and Cachar, to the east of Sylhet.

Prior to the war, Sylhet had a lower priority for the British administration. But now EIC became interested in Sylhet and saw it as an area of strategic importance in the war against the Burmese. One of the military priority of the EIC was also to find a link to China through north-eastern Bengal. Sylhet was the point of access to these possible networks imagined by the EIC. Thus Sylhet became part of British control and administration and was governed as a part of Bengal. The EIC launched a three-ponged attack against Burma, namely from Assam, Sylhet and Chittagong-Arakan. After two years of fighting, the war ended in a decisive British victory and the Treaty of Yandaboo was signed in 1826.

During this period the commercialisations of Sylhet tea plantations under Company rule also took place, especially after 1834 when the EIC lost its monopoly over the tea trade from China. By late 18th century there was a significant presence of British merchants in Sylhet.

1874: Become part of Assam

Prior to 1874, the British ruled Assam (located north-east of Bangladesh) as an 'appendage' of Bengal. However, in 1874, for administrative reasons, Assam was separated from Bengal and placed under one Chief Commissioner. On 12 September 1874 the East Bengal district of Sylhet – historically unconnected to Assam – was included in the newly created Assam Province. The districts of Cachar, Goalpara, and Garo Hills were also merged with Assam.

The primary goal of making Assam into a new administrative entity was to find an inexpensive and effective way to administer the area. Considerations of historical continuity or cultural contiguity were not in the minds of colonial officials.

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1897: New Sylhet built after Great Assam earthquake

On 12 June 1897 Assam was struck by natural disaster. A powerful earthquake, measuring over 8.0 on the Richter scale https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=_WVIAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA109&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjZgMas16jcAhWFjKQKHTUEAn4Q6AEIRDAF, hit Assam. The Attrabari, Rambrai and Shillong areas were the most devastated. It demolished the northern area of East Bengal, from Rangpur and Natore to Moulvi Bazar. Sylhet and Mymensingh regions experienced severe damage. The tremor was felt less strongly over much of South Asia, including lower Myanmar (also known as Burma), the Assam valley and much of the Indian subcontinent.

It was the first Indian earthquake for which levels of shaking were documented in a contemporary earthquake report https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=_WVIAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA109 &hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjZgMas16jcAhWFjKQKHTUEAn4Q6AEIRDAF.

Following the demolition of Sylhet a modern and European model new town was built on the wreckage. Many new roads were constructed in the late 1890s and Sylhet became really connected to the other parts of the country with the establishment of an extension line of Assam–Bengal Railway in 1912-15. From the very beginning of the 20th century, the importance of Sylhet increased with the establishment of the tea industry.

1905 - 1911: Assam Province include Dhaka, Chittagong and Rajshahi during Partition of Bengal

Following the partition of Bengal in 1905 – known as 'Banga Bhanga' in Bengali - the territorial entity of Assam also embraced the districts of Dhaka, Chittagong and Rajshahi divisions of Bengal and the state was placed under one Lieutenant Governor. But six years later when the partition was annulled in 1911, Assam was separated from Bengal and again placed under one Chief Commissioner.

1926: Campaign to keep Sylhet part of Assam

The inclusion of Sylhet in Assam created challenges on the religious and linguistic fronts. Firstly, Assam is predominantly a Hindu-majority province whereas the district of Sylhet is Muslim-majority area. During that time, the Muslims constituted 60% of Sylhet's population https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=YRyAAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA176 &hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwij3p_qxa3cAhWQyKQKHSNvAq0Q6AEILTAB. Secondly, Sylhet has a predominantly Bengali speaking population, whereas the Assamese speak mainly Hindi.

Inclusion of Sylhet in Assam created some serious social problems as the English educated class among the Bengalis from Sylhet came to occupy the bulk of the positions in Assam's colonial bureaucracy, which was resented by the Assamese. The origins of the Bengali Assamese conflict in Assam in later years had its origin in the rivalry between the inhabitants of the Surma valley – inhabited predominantly by Bengalis – and those of the Brahmaputra valley – predominantly Assames. Sponsored migration of Bengalis to Assam further fuelled these rivalries, as migration from Bengal to Assam became quite significant during the second decade of the 20th century.

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The Bengali-Assamese divide was, to some extent, diluted by the Hindu-Muslim divide, when the idea of a separate Muslim nationality appeared on the political scene, and, at least for a short period, the idea of Muslim nationalism produced a unity between the Assamese and Bengali Muslims.

In January 1926 when the Assam Council debated the separation of Assam from Sylhet, an influential representative from Sylhet, Dewan Wasil Chowdhury, opposed it as did Saadulla, an influential Assamese Muslim leader. In fact, the provincial Muslim League Council of Assam was formed, primarily, to mobilise Muslim opinion against the transfer of Sylhet to Bengal, although the majority population – in both the valleys – supported the proposal for separation https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Nyk6oA2nOlgC&pg=PA212&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj0g8js5q3cAhUK6KQKHZKyAXgQ6AEILjAB. The British Government did not favour the idea also, as it could have given an impetus to similar other demands for the change of boundaries, upsetting the political status quo, and especially the Hindu Muslim demographic balance.

Thus Sylhet remained part of Assam Province from 1874 to 1947, i.e. over 70 years, until British India was divided into India and Pakistan.

1947: From Indian Assam to East Pakistan

Sylhet Referendum

In 1947 a referendum was carried out to decide whether Sylhet should continue to form part of Assam province or be amalgamated with the new province of East Bengal as part of the soon to be created country of Pakistan. Interestingly, the British Government gave the power for people of Sylhet to decide their fate themselves by voting, whereas Bengal and Punjab was not given that option and was divided primarily by the demographic complexion of the provinces.

Sylhet zila was in the grip of referendum fever. Muslim League, headed by Muhammad Ali Jinnah, campaigned for Sylhet to be part of new 'Islamic nation' while Congress Party, led by Jawaharlal Nehru, campaigned for it to remain part of Indian Assam. But they were poles apart in their effort.

Congress Party appeared to confine its responsibility in dealing with the referendum in Sylhet largely to negotiating with the Viceroy and his associates at the highest level of administration. None of their representatives visited the area during the preparation of the referendum https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=YRyAAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA176&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwij3p_qxa3cAhWQyKQKHSNvAq0Q6AEILTAB. In contrast, the Muslim League formed a Committee of high profile members such as the powerful, charismatic and passionate Bengali Maulana Bhashani, and even sanctioned adequate funds at the behest of Jinnah.

The referendum was held on 6 and 7 July 1947. Over 56% or 239,619 voters were in favour of Sylhet becoming a part of Pakistan while less than 44% or 184,041 voters https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=YRyAAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA176&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwij3p_qxa3cAhWQyKQKHSNvAq0Q6AEILTAB wanted it to remain a part of undivided Assam in India. The result was not unexpected as it almost reflected the demographic composition of the district’s population.

The Sylhet referendum was virtually a vote on the twin issues of the reorganisations of India on a communal basis and of Assam on a linguistic basis. The Hindus, who had for decades agitated for amalgamation with Bengal, voted to remain in Assam, while the Muslims who had opposed the division of Assam till 1928, supported the partition.

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There were complaints and allegations of voting irregularities and bogus votes, notably from Congress leader Jawaharlal Nehru, and a demand for a fresh referendum. However, despite serious doubts, no attempt was made to organise a protest movement, presumably because 'no one outside Sylhet is particularly anxious to retain the district in Assam'. Even Nehru accepted the verdict.

Keeping in mind the poll outcome, Nehru recommended the transfer of the entire district of Sylhet to east Pakistan with the exception of three thanas of Badarpur, Ratabari, Patharkandi and a portion of Karimganj thana. The Muslim League accepted this request. With that Assam lost nearly one-third of its population, along with its vast paddy lands and the tea, lime and cement industries of Sylhet. Major portion of the Surma valley was also lost and only a remnant of this old natural division remains in divided Assam.

Part of Chotrogram (Chittagong) Division

As a result of the referendum, Sylhet became a district in the eastern wing of Pakistan known as 'Purbo Pakistan' (East Pakistan) in Bengali. It was put under Chotrogram (Chittagong) Division and remained so till 1995.

1971: City of Saints becomes third major city of Bangladesh

As a result of the 1971 Mukhtijuddho (Independence War of Bangladesh) East Pakistan became the newly formed independent country of Bangladesh - and Sylhet became it's third major city after Dhaka and Chotrogram.

A number of great personalities like Rabindranath Tagore, Poet Nazrul, Mahatma Gandhi, Moulana Mohammad Ali, Moulana Shaokat Ali, Hossain Shahid Suhrawardy, Sher-e-Bangla AK Fazlul Haque and Manik Bandopadhyay visited Sylhet on different occasions.

Iqbal Siddiquee, Journalist

1983 - 1984: Greater Sylhet divided into 4 zillas

During the 1983 - 84 period Greater Sylhet was divided into four new districts or zillas:

Sylhet - north-east section
Sunamganj - north-west section
Habiganj - south-west section
Moulvi Bazar - south-east section

1995: Sylhet Bibhag (Sylhet Division)

On 1 August 1995 Sylhet broke away from Chotrogram bibhag and was declared as the 6th division of the country - 'Sylhet Bibhag' or Sylhet Division, consisting of the four zilas of the greater Sylhet. This change increased the status of Sylhet even more. The Divisional Commissioner of Sylhet was given responsibility of acting as the chief revenue officer and coordinator of divisional government offices.

Today, the Sylhet Division along with Barisal, Chittagong, Dhaka, Khulna, Rajshahi, and Rangpur divisions make up the whole of Bangladesh.

2001: Sylhet City Corporation

On 9 April 2001 Sylhet city was upgraded into City Corporation having been a municipality since 1878, i.e. for 123 years. However, the Sylhet municipal board itself was established eleven years earlier in 1867.

2009: Metropolitan status

On 31 March 2009, seven years after gaining Corporation status, Sylhet was granted metropolitan city status along with Barisal.

Metropolitan city, or metropolis, is a term generally used to represent a large urban city. By becoming established as a metropolis in 2009, Sylhet became acknowledged nationally and internationally as a center of economic, political and cultural importance to Bangladesh.

At Present: 'Londonies' drive economy

The main economic development of Sylhet Bibhag is carried out by British Bangladeshis, commonly referred to as 'Londoni'. Over 95% of the bengalis in Britain come from the Sylhet region and they invest largely to the development of Sylhet.

During the fiscal year of 2005-06, the flow of remittances increased by 25 % to $4.8 billion, mostly from expatriates of Sylheti origin living in the United Kingdom with significant contributions from expatriates in the United States. That amount was expected to increase to $5.5 billion in 2007, with the government's attention toward supervising and monitoring banks.

Wikipedia - Sylhet

Booming investment

The construction industry in Sylhet is currently booming, with many shopping centres and apartments being built to luxurious standards. The skyline of the city is mainly dominated by large buildings of western-style shopping malls, which has been the largest investments made by the expatriates. There are many new restaurants and stores, often themed on those found in London, which have been established to cater to the visiting Sylheti expatriate population and the growing Sylheti middle classes. These include, Garden Tower in Uposhohor, the London Mansion, Sylhet Millennium, Blue Water (named after Bluewater Shopping Complex in the UK), London Fried Chicken (from Perfect Fried Chicken) and Tessco (misspelt from the original Tesco).

New hotels have been established, the Rose View Hotel (in Uposhohor) and the first Apartment-Hotel and resort in Bangladesh, called Grand Sylhet (near Osmani International Airport), are both the only five-star hotels in the city.

But,new matters of concern are awaiting the people here. The geologists and other scientists say the Sylhet region falls within the most earthquake prone zone of the country. During the last 150 years three major earthquakes (surface-wave magnitude larger than 7.5 on the Richter Scale ) have occurred in this area. But local people are not that aware of the seismic status of the region. Since the last catastrophic earthquake occurred in 1918, very few people remember it.

The experts clearly say a strong earthquake affecting a major urban centre like Sylhet may result in damage and destruction of massive proportions and may have very long term consequences for the entire country. Like most major urban centres in our country, Sylhet has grown tremendously in the last few decades due to unabated migration from the smaller towns and rural areas. As a result, the city has developed in an unplanned way with little consideration for proper town planning norms. Moreover, about 80 per cent of the buildings were constructed without following the building code.

Iqbal Siddiquee, Journalist

Sister city

In order to foster greater cultural and commercial tie many cities across the world will link up and become 'Sister cities' or 'Twin towns'. This is usually a community led partnership though support are also provided by the government.

Sylhet is Sister cities with:

Source: Wikipedia - Sylhet